The river called a small group of MNS members on Sunday, May 8, 2016
to venture out onto the upper reaches of the left branch of the Sungai (River)
Sarawak. It starts in the Penrissen
Highlands and as it flows towards Kuching it becomes larger and larger.
The starting point, Kampung Bengoh on the Sungai Abang, a shaded
tributary of the Sungai Sarawak, foretold of what was to come. We would experience the natural world
and see man's positive interaction with it.
The fast-flowing Sungai Sarawak swept, us, the intrepid explorers
along. In reality all that we needed
to do was to dip our paddles into the water to keep the kayaks going more or
less straight. This allowed us to
immerse ourselves into the river, the trees, the sound of the water, the call
of the birds and insects. We became one with the natural world.
This is the traditional homeland of the Bidayuh people; the mark
of their hands is on the riverbank and incorporated into the natural world. Towering durian trees (Durio sp.) rise above the bamboo
clumps. There are approximately 30
species of this tree (the number depends on the source) and this area produces
durian with seeds covered with creamy white, yellow or red flesh. The latter is less common and gets a
better price at the market.
The emergent tapang (Koompassia
excelsa), one the tallest trees in the rainforest and can reach a
staggering 80 metres, dots the riverbank.
The fluffy umbrella-like crown and white bone-like trunk are easily seen
distinguishing features. It is fondly
called the bee tree because honeybees, from the apidae family, build nests high
up in the branches. This legally protected tree is highly valued by Sarawak's
indigenous communities.
The largest grass in the world, bamboo, is a perennial evergreen that
is a member of family Poaceae family and
Bambusoideaea subfamily. This graceful plant, which shades many places along the
river, has multiple uses.
There was a rather extensive discussion about bamboo chicken, locally
known as ayam pansoh. Bamboo serves as the container to cook
this delicious delicacy. But this
is only the beginning. It is used for
example to construct houses, weave baskets and mats, and serve as containers.
Its fibrous routes stabilise riverbanks and bamboo shoots of some species are eaten. It is a grass with an almost endless
number of uses.
At Kampung Danu the river changes. It became faster and more challenging as we encountered
rapids. Some we flowed over and
some we had to go around.
Limestone cliffs dramatically materialised and the river curved suddenly
at the foot of theses starkly beautiful rock faces. The river provided us with
a new perspective of the Penrissen Highlands.
We paddled at the foot of majestic cliffs and looked upwards in
wonder. We smelled the guano of
the bat droppings in hidden caves.
Our guides told us that they had visited caves and of a cave that
connected villages. The mystery
continues.
Unfortunately the adventure came to an end. But we take with us calmness and
memories.
We would to extend our thanks Semadang Kayaking and the team for guiding
our journey down the river.
